The Soldados Route with the Local Community

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Pumamaqui Thermal Springs

The thermal waters have been used for millennia for the benefit of human beings. Different cultures have found in them a method to recover the health of the body and the mind. The Andean peoples were no exception. The Ecuadorian mountains have an exceptional richness in geothermal waters, which were already known and very popular since the Incas. A few kilometers southwest of Cuenca, on the road to Soldados, are the Pumamaqui Hot Springs. This is a recent undertaking, considering other more developed and older sites in the country. In Pumamaqui, the waters spring up naturally from the ground. They are health bubbles. It has pools of different temperatures, healing therapies of cold/hot contrast, Turkish bath and clay. It is a primordial space to free the mind from the stress of daily life and routine. To leave all the problems aside. The landscape around the Yanuncay River contributes to this goal. Located in the valley of Soldados. The name Pumamaqui comes from the fact that a kind of tree grows in the surroundings, whose leaves have the shape of a lion's paw. Pumamaqui then is translated like paw of the puma. To get to the spa, you must take the San Joaquín-Soldados-Chaucha road. At km 23 there is an entrance sign. Then a hundred meters of walk. It is five minutes away before reaching the community of Soldados. Pumamaqui is a source of medicinal treatments. The beneficial characteristics of its waters are due to their alkalinity and their composition based on sodium, potassium, and calcium ions. They give a relaxing effect. Recommended to combat a huge list of ailments: high blood pressure, rheumatism, gout, joint, muscle and bone injuries, bone decalcifications and malformations, bronchitis, surgical sequelae, arthritis and arteriosclerosis; respiratory and ear disorders, insomnia, nervous diseases, skin diseases, paraplegia and other ailments. Its infrastructure is simple. Enough for those who are looking for a different experience. At the hot springs, the water is channeled into pools built with stone and cement. It has dressing rooms and bathrooms. The service is complemented with typical dishes. Visitors can request vegetarian food, pizza and drinks.

3.19 Km.

Cajas National Park in Azuay Ecuador

The Cajas National Park is located in the province of Azuay, in southern Ecuador, where the Andes mountain range is older, with less volcanic activity and without the elevated peaks that are so common further north. In this area, the mountain range forms extensive highlands of great beauty where water accumulates in large quantities. The Cajas is full of bodies of water: there have been about 165 lagoons with more than 1 hectare of surface and 621 with less than 1 hectare; There are a total of 786 bodies of water. Surely the condors that visit it can appreciate its true form from the air: a green and golden rug, very wrinkled and where each valley keeps lagoons connected by small streams. Due to the large number of lagoons, the presence of migratory birds and their importance for the collection, storage and provision of water for nearby populations, it was recognized as a Ramsar or Wetland site of International Importance. How to get to Cajas National Park? From Cuenca Laguna the Toreadora. It is reached by the route Cuenca - Molleturo - Puerto Inca, approximately 40 kilometers from Cuenca. On this site you will find the Technical Office of the Park, an interpretation center and access to the different trails. Llaviucu. It is reached by the Cuenca - Molleturo - Puerto Inca road. At 7.5 kilometers from the "Y" of Sayausí on the left bank, is the entrance road. From this point, 2.9 kilometers are crossed by paving until you reach the entrance to the park. Flora and Fauna of the Cajas National Park Most of El Cajas is a wasteland mixed with paper tree groves (called quinoas locally) and lagoons. In the low parts, bordering the 3,200 meters of altitude, there is also Andean forest. 600 species of vascular plants, 43 of mammals, 157 of birds (24 of them hummingbirds), 17 of amphibians and 4 of reptiles have been recorded. In the moorland there are extensive pajonales, with pads in the most flooded areas. There are also shrubs such as senecios, chuquiraguas and drunkards. In some lagoons there are cattails, some reeds that can measure up to a meter and a half, and horsetails. There are several endemic species such as sarashima, the papyrus of the Toreadora lagoon, which is a type of reed, and two species of Valerian. The forests of paper trees are magical environments where the reddish logs are shelling and mixed with the greenery of the vegetation. In the areas of Jerez and Yacutuviana, east of the park, and in Mazán and Llaviucu, west, there is a good Andean forest. The Mazán forest is very well preserved and extends to the edge of the park. There are shrubs of pacarcar, shuspilla, bermera or tulapa, mortiño and cinnamon trees. Several endemic species of Ecuador can be found near the Toreadora and Llaviucu lagoons, such as moor mice, the Ecuadorian cotton rat, and the porcupine quichua. One of the mice is endemic to the Cajas, that is, it has not been found anywhere outside the park: the fishing mouse of El Cajas. Other mammals in the park are rabbits, moor wolves, deer, chucules and pumas. Among the birds you can see condors, parrots, Andean toucans, Andean turkeys, tangaras and hummingbirds. In the lagoons there are water birds such as the Andean duck, the diver and the paramo seagull. The high Andean azulito and the bird of the quinuales live only in the forests of paper trees of El Cajas and its surroundings. Most amphibians are in the moor. There are cutin frogs, marsupial frogs, rocket frogs, Mazán's green harlequin frog, and the three cross harlequin frog, among others. Among the reptiles we have lizards and guagsas and a species of snake known as Yanuncay runner snake. Main attractions Cajas National Park Toreadora and Llaviucu in the Cajas National Park By the Cuenca - Molleturo route, the first lagoons to appear are Llaviucu and the Toreadora. There you can enjoy the moorland and quinoa forests, which form dreamlike landscapes. From the Toreadora you can walk to the lagoon of Illincocha. Other lagoons in Cajas National Park From La Toreadora part a path inside the park towards other lagoons. The first ones that appear are the lagoons of the Burines Valley, on a large plain ideal for camping. When you continue south, you will reach Lagartococha and the Cave of the Dead, where it is believed that travelers and smugglers of spirits were dying of cold. To the southeast of Burines is Taitachungo or Mamamag. Qhapaq Ñan in the Cajas National Park This route that crosses the Cajas National Park used to serve as a connection between the Sierra and the Coast. The remaining section began in Tomebamba (the current Basin) and culminated in the walls of Molleturo, already outside the protected area. The Paredones are a set of pre-Hispanic buildings that indicate that there was an important town or resting place Cañari and then Inca. Cultural aspects Cajas National Park The Cajas, a natural passage between the Sierra and the Coast, was already used by the Canaris, who inhabited the area before the Inca and Spanish invasions. The Incas built a road, from which today you can travel a small section, which connected Cuenca with the Coast. In the republican era this road was reactivated and it was known as "Camino de García Moreno". Several towns of Cañari and Mestizo descent are currently located around the park. A modern road now crosses the park and allows you to quickly get from Cuenca to Guayaquil. There are several versions about his name. One says that it comes from the Kichwa Kahas, which means hill or mountain range. Others relate it to valleys full of small lagoons and ponds "encased" in the mountains. In any case, the massif and the National Park are part of the tradition and culture, which is manifested, for example, through numerous legends inspired by the mysterious landscape of the area. Originally the area was declared in 1977 as a National Recreation Area, but in 1996 its Management Category was changed to a National Park. In 2013, UNESCO established the Massif Biosphere Reserve of El Cajas, which includes Cajas as one of its core areas. Source: http://areasprotegida.ambiente.gob.ec/es/areas-protegida/parque-nacional-cajas Images: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Ecuador_cajas_national_park.jpg https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pain_National_Parking_The_Boxes.jpg https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Ama_la_Vida_-_Flickr_-_AR_PN_ANDES_CUENCA_RESERVAS_CAJAS_LAGUNA_TOREADORA_166_(14584742770)_(2).jpg

11.42 Km.

Llaviucu Lagoon

Llaviucu ("lock") or Zorrocuho ("fox's den") is a lagoon that belongs to Cajas National Park (PNC), which also holds the UNESCO title of World Biosphere Reserve (WBR). This lagoon is the source of the Tomebamba river that crosses the city of Cuenca, which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This beautiful place is located 17 km from the city of Cuenca, on the border of the Park, next to the rural parish of Sayausí. It is the closest lagoon to Cuenca and can be reached by car or by walking along a 2 km long stone path, which deviates from the Cuenca-Naranjal road at kilometer 15. Llaviucu is an extraordinary example of the biological diversity of Cajas National Park. In its small environment a variety of birds live together, some of them endemic, amphibians, plant species such as the paper tree, the sarar, the pumamaqui, the sigsal, human flesh, the guando, the huicundos, orchids, bromeliads. All of them are plants of the primary forest. In addition, here there are fish, like the trout which is an introduced species, as well as ducks, coots, gulls and Andean toucans, among other animals. The typical activities in the lagoon are hiking, with at least three routes, sport fishing and photography. It is completely forbidden to hunt animals. Another important feature of the site is its typical glacial formation, that is, a u-shaped valley that was formed when thousands of years ago the ice retreated from the earth's surface. Near the lagoon there is a unique abandoned building, an old brick house that was the headquarters of the Azuay Brewery in the early twentieth century. It was located in Llaviucu because large quantities of good quality water are required for the production of beer. The economic destiny of Llaviucu is very marked, because in its surroundings there are cattle and milk production enterprises. In the 70's and 80's of the 20th century it was the place of experiment for the introduction of the rainbow trout and the installation of the first farms for these fish. Today, the purpose of the lagoon is different. Managed by the Potable Water Enterprise of Cuenca. Llaviucu is cared for and the access of visitors and tourists is regulated because it is part of the hydrographic system that supplies and gives water security to the city of Cuenca.

15.60 Km.

Cucheros Lagoon Route

The toponym "cucheros" refers to the breeders of pigs, pigs or "kuchis", as the name is in Quichua. It can be translated as "place with pigs". Ancient place of passage of the traders of pigs between the coast and Cuenca. The "cucheros" spent the night in the lagoon and released their animals to rest. Some specimens escaped and their descendants went wild, giving rise to the name. As it is so close to the main road, the route through Cucheros is of low difficulty. It is 1.2 km long and takes about 45 minutes. The path that leads to Las Burines and other larger lakes, passes through its vicinity. A moorland site, the main plant species present in the surrounding area is straw. A number of recreational activities can be undertaken, such as hiking, trekking, sport fishing, photography, bird watching and trekking. Although it seems to be a low difficulty, in the height it is not advisable to neglect it. The visitor should first get information and advice from the Park's administrators. Due to the topography and variable weather conditions, it can cause confusion and the hiker risks getting lost. Cajas National Park is a National Recreation Area, a Ramsar site and a Biosphere Reserve. It has an approximate extension of 28,500 hectares, northwest of Cuenca. It has moorland and Andean forest. There are 235 lagoons in the moor ecosystem. Its flora has wood species, shrubs, orchids, ferns and mosses. The forests of Polylepis, "quinoa" or "paper tree" are the only species of tree above 4,000 masl. There are 500 vascular plants. The fauna component of the Park is made up of 152 species of birds, 43 mammals, 15 amphibians and 4 reptiles.

18.06 Km.

La Toreadora (Bullfigther) Lagoon

La Toreadora is the most accessible lagoon of the Cajas National Park and is the heart of this protected area. It is located 34 kilometers from Cuenca city, next to the road to Guayaquil city, by Molleturo-Naranjal road and at a height of 3.900 meters above sea level. It is located between the peaks of the southern Andes of Ecuador, the highest mountain range in this area which is a continental watershed. Here, rainwaters begin their journey towards the Pacific Ocean or the Amazon River, depending on which side of these mountains they fall. For the visitor interested in knowing about the Park, Toreadora is the ideal place as it has an information and interpretation center and a bar-restaurant service to spend a pleasant day observing nature. The polylepis forests (paper trees) are the main attraction in flora and bird watching stands out in the fauna of the site. The lagoon’s surface has an area of 17.97 hectares and its perimeter is 2.621 meters. Depending on the number of visitors, it is possible to descend to the shore of the lagoon and go hiking around it. It is highly recommended to be accompanied by a guide who knows the area, because due to unexpected weather changes, it is easy to get lost. The approach to the shore of the lagoon to admire it or to practice sport fishing, must be cautious, because it hides areas of marsh. The temperature varies between -2 to 18 Celsius degrees, without regularity, so that frost, drizzle, fog or days of intense sun are frequent. There are 71 species of Ecuadorian endemic plants in this place. At Toreadora lagoon it is possible to seen some of the 152 species of birds, 43 species of mammals, 15 species of amphibians or 4 species of reptiles that inhabit the National Park. Cajas National Park has numerous tourist attractions such as the Tres Cruces hill, very close to La Toreadora following the road, with a spectacular panoramic view and the exact point of the continental watershed. The valley and lagoon of Llaviucu are also accessible by car in a lower part of the Park. While lagoons such as Taitachugo, Burines or Luspa, relatively close to La Toreadora, are accessible by trekking routes for which a qualified naturalist guide is required. The Park where Toreadora is located is called "Cajas" because it is formed by high peaks and in the lower areas between them lacustrine systems are contained, like huge interconnected boxes. Rivers such as Tomebamba, Yanuncay, Mazán or Migüir are born in these lagoons.

19.01 Km.

Volcanic Springs & Spas at Baños of Cuenca

The rural parish of Baños, southwest of the city of Cuenca, is considered one of the most attractive places to rest and recover. Almost eight decades have passed since the use of the thermal waters in this area for recreational and healing purposes began. Baños preserves its image of a typical Andean rural town, dominated by its imposing celestial temple consecrated to the Virgin of Guadalupe. The church was built by miners or community workers in the 1950s. It is an imitation of the New Cathedral, in the center of Cuenca. The upper part of the parish is a viewpoint of Cuenca. The 8th of September is the feast in honour of the Virgin of Guadalupe. However, everything changed in the town with the modernization of its spas with thermal volcanic waters, inns and restaurants of typical food. There are different offers to enjoy services such as hydromassages, professional massages, surface and underground pools, contrasting hot springs, mud caves, Turkish baths, among others. In the gastronomy, the famous “empanadas de viento” (wind pie) stand out. The gastronomic tradition that also makes Baños famous, was started by Rosa Nasipucha. Nowadays there is a varied offer of food in dozens of businesses. The thermal waters of Baños are attributed with curative properties. These waters have their origin in "La Loma de los Hervideros" (the Hill of Boilers). The water comes to the surface at a temperature of 75°C. After cooling them, they are used at about 36 to 42°C. José Barros Alemán, an elderly man from the parish, remembers that the spa service was started by the family of Ricardo Durán Brito and Matilde Alemán, who founded Balnearios Durán in the 1940s. Mr. José remembers that people used to walk from Cuenca, because there was no transport. They were groups of young people from schools and universities, who went to the only place in Cuenca with a 25-meter swimming pool to practice swimming. Then the pools were increased. And more recently, more and more spa services specialized in the area of well-being and beauty have been opened, such as Piedra de Agua or Novaqua Spa.

19.54 Km.